The Ultimate Treadmill Buyer's Guide

The Ultimate Treadmill Buyer's Guide
This article lists the most important things you should look for and consider when you make your treadmill purchase. It's quite a read but you're going to be making one of the most important purchases of your life (as I explain why here) so the time spent here is well worth it in my opinion. If you just want the short answer, head over to our best buy charts.

I. How Long Your Treadmill Will Last – A Rough Guide
II. What To Look For In a Treadmill – Primary Considerations
    a. The Feel
    b. Warranty
    c. Motor
    d. Brand
    e. Rollers
    f. Deck
    g. Shipping
III. What To Look For In a Treadmill – Secondary Considerations
    a. TV
    b. High maximum speeds and low minimum speeds
    c. Negative Incline/Super Incline
    d. Folding
    e. Heart Rate Monitoring/Heart Rate Control

One of the best indicators of quality is the price of the product. Generally speaking, the more expensive a treadmill, the better built it is. A certain price represents a certain level of use before needing a repair.

Although each treadmill and each brand is different, the general rule we use is:

1. For each dollar you spend, the treadmill is good for one mile of running (defined as more than 7 M.P.H).
2. For each dollar spent, it’s good for 1.5 miles of jogging (defined as between 4 M.P.H and 7 M.P.H).
3. Finally, for each dollar spent, it’s good for 2 miles of walking (less than 4 M.P.H).

These numbers and ranges are not to be taken as absolute.

We’ve come up with these numbers simply by computing the usage of two users’ experiences (specifically the Epic 425MX and the Health Trainer 802T). Since the sample is small, it’s not going to be truly accurate but this is the best measurement we can think of right now. We should also note that the figures above only apply for the AVERAGE treadmills at each of the price range. An above average treadmill’s lifespan would probably be 25% to 50% longer since it is of a higher quality.

The following ratings are just guidelines and are not absolute. When we say for the regular jogger, we do not mean that you can’t run full speed on it. Rather, what we have written below is how we recommend you use the treadmill so that it is still problem free 3 to 5 years from now.

Price Level 1: $500 – For the regular walker. (Walking is defined as a speed less than 4.0 M.P.H)
Price Level 2: $1000 – For the regular walker, the semi regular jogger and the very occasional runner. (Jogging is defined as 4.0-7.0 M.P.H.)
Price Level 3: $1500 - For the regular jogger and the casual/semi-regular runner. (Running is defined as a speed of 7.1 M.P.H to 9.5 M.P.H.)
Price Level 4: $2000 - For the regular runner and casual sprinter (Sprinting is defined as 9.5 M.P.H or more)
Price Level 5: $2500 - For the regular runner and regular sprinter (Regular is defined as 4-5 sessions per week and each session 30 minutes long. Semi regular is defined as 2-3 sessions per week and each session 30 minutes long.)
Price Level 6: $3000 or more - For pretty much everything since this is the commercial treadmill territory. It should be able to handle anything and then some if it’s a solidly made commercial treadmill.

Let’s say that you pick a treadmill priced at $1500 and we have given it a score of 4.0. We would multiply $1500 by 1.25 to obtain the number of “running” miles the treadmill should be able to endure. We multiply it by 1.25 to represent the 25% extra quality that an above average treadmill has over an average treadmill.

1. 1500*1.25=1875 miles of running before needing a repair.
2. 1875*1.5=2812.5 miles of jogging before needing a repair.
3. 1875*2=3750 miles of walking before needing a repair.


At $1500, this is a treadmill recommended for the regular jogger and/or the semi regular runner. Let’s say an imaginary user jogs 5 times a week at 6.0 miles per hour.

1. Five times at 30 minutes per session is two and a half hours.
2. Two and half hours at 6.0 miles per hour is 15 miles total per week.
3. Fifteen miles per week for 52 weeks a year is 780 miles per year total.
4. 780 miles per year for 4 years is 3120 miles which is slightly over the 2812.5 miles we prescribed for jogging before breakdown.

There are other factors we haven’t factored into this calculation. If there’s more than one user that uses the treadmill, you need to take that user’s use mileage into consideration. If the average weight of the users exceeds 200 pounds, we would recommend you go up one price level ($500) from where you had originally planned.

We have to remind you that the above is a very rough guide. The lifespan of your treadmill can be affected by many variables so it’s impossible for the above to be completely accurate.

II. What To Look For In a Treadmill – Primary Considerations

A. How it Feels

All the bells and whistles that come with a treadmill are not going to be of much value if the treadmill you use doesn't feel good when you run on it. After all, if you don't feel good running on it, you won't run. If you don't run, what good are the bells and whistles?

Whether a treadmill feels "good" or not really depends on the user. A treadmill that feels good to one person might not get the same reaction from a second person. Even though different people may get different responses from the same piece of equipment, there are some general factors you can use to determine if a treadmill is comfortable.

Stability - A treadmill needs to feel stable when you run on it. If the treadmill wobbles when you run, how do you expect to be comfortable? Generally, the heavier the treadmill, the more stable it feels. You are not advised to get a treadmill that has a weight capacity that only slightly exceeds your own. On the safe side, the weight capacity should be 50 to 100 pounds more than what you weigh.

Smoothness - This has to do with the belt and/or cushioning system of the treadmill. Higher priced treadmills generally feel smoother. The name of the belt or cushioning system means nothing. It is nothing more than fancy jargon to make you think there is some ultra unique sophisticated technology behind it.

Belt Dimensions - For width, I think you should consider 18" as the bare minimum. There aren’t a lot of models right now in any price range that goes beyond a 20” belt. So a good sized belt is 20” in width. Even if you feel 20” is not going to be wide enough, you really don’t have a choice unless you’re willing to pay upwards of $2000. In terms of

As for the length, 57-60 inches is recommended for runners of all heights. At 54-56 inches, runners that are average in height (5’8” or less) should not have any problems. For users that are taller than that, the belt is acceptable but probably not the most comfortable. A belt that’s 53” or less is good for walkers of all heights. Tall joggers can jog on it but might feel it’s a bit restrictive. We do not recommend a belt this long for running.

B. Warranty

There is actually a very detailed article dedicated to the warranty issue located here. The short answer is that a long motor and frame warranty should be a given. Labor is 1 year in most cases even across higher priced models. The key to look for is the length of the parts warranty. If it's 4 years or more, the treadmill is generally said to be of an above average quality level. In our article, we really discuss things in detail so it is highly recommend you read it.

C. Motor

Like warranty, there is also a whole separate article dedicated to treadmill motors located here. To summarize that article, a motor's rating on paper should not be fully trusted as numbers can and are often rigged when it comes to treadmills. For the horsepower rating given, you should confirm whether it is the continuous or peak/total rating. If it's not continuous, the number is meaningless. If it is continuous, it's a little bit more meaningful but also doesn't tell the story since there’s no way to distinguish the RPM it’s running at.

For runners, we recommend a 3.0 continuous horse power rating (CHP), for joggers 2.5 CHP and for walkers 2.0 CHP. It doesn’t mean that a treadmill with a motor rated less than these figures cannot go all the way up to 10 miles per hour but rather, we believe a motor rated at these figures are going to last much longer for its intended use. The best motors are tuned to run at low revolutions per minute (RPM). Since you can't determine the size or the RPM of the motor, the next best thing is by listening to how loud the treadmill is. If it's loud, then it probably means the motor is working harder and faster than it should.

D. Brand

Like the motor and the warranty, there is a separate article detailing you why it's not a good idea to buy solely based on the brand. The brand can be used to determine the general quality. Actual quality differs on a model to model basis.

E. Rollers

Rollers are actually a very important part of your treadmill. Generally, bigger rollers can help your treadmill last longer. Rollers are the round cylinders that make contact with your treadmill belt. As it rotates, the belt rotates around the rollers. Since the belt is kept in contact with the rollers over an extended period of time, heat builds up. When heat builds up, the belt gets damaged. With larger rollers, less heat builds up so less damage is done to the belt. If you can, get a treadmill that has rollers of at least 2 and a half inch diameter. Although small rollers aren’t fatal, in this case, the larger is usually better.

F. Deck

Unfortunately treadmill companies don’t list how thick the deck is. Generally, a deck that is 3 quarters of an inch thick should be sufficient with thicker being better. Sometimes, companies name and trademark a certain deck technology. To be perfectly honest, we have trouble distinguishing between a high quality and a low quality deck based on name alone. Therefore, we recommend you approach a deck that sounds scientifically advanced with indifference. Cracked decks are in general, not that common.

G. Shipping

Like many of the categories above, there’s an entire article where we discuss free shipping. The short of it is that free shipping more often that not, does not include inside delivery and set up. We generally recommend at least two people that has a combined weight that is more than the treadmill if you’re considering moving it inside your house yourself. We also recommend you get something with wheels underneath it so you can wheel the treadmill inside the house.

III. What To Look For In a Treadmill – Secondary Considerations

The primary considerations are called primary considerations for a reason - they are the most important things you should consider when you buy a treadmill. Our meta scores are largely determined by how well we think the company nailed each of the primary consideration areas.

From our research, we have found that treadmills can be equipped with a variety of things that really make no difference to what a treadmill does – to make you run. These are the things we have termed secondary considerations which are those extra things you can live without. These things are basically the icing on the cake. If you base your purchase decision on any of the following, you might regret it later on.

A. TV

Watch TV while you run! This may sound great in theory but suffers in reality. When you’re moving up and down, left and right with sweat drops all over your face, the last thing that matters is what’s on the TV screen. If you want something to make using the treadmill less boring, you can always equip yourself with an iPod.

B. High maximum speeds and low minimum speeds

If you think you have to have that 12 or even 15 MPH setting on your treadmill, you might want to check again. You are doing some serious sprinting (not running) if you go beyond 10 MPH. If all you're looking for is a good workout (and not for serious training), 10 MPH is more than sufficient for most people. Don't believe me? Try running at 10 MPH for 10 minutes - all but the fittest will actually be able to do it.

C. Negative Incline/Super Incline

In most cases, that 12% or 15% incline/grade is going to be sufficient. Unless you're doing some special serious training, you don't need that steep incline (30%) or that 3% negative incline (downhill running). If you just want a good workout, try speed walking at a 12% incline for 15 minutes. (Don't blame me if your calves are hurting at the end of your workout!)

D. Folding

A non folding version of the same treadmill could cost a $100 less than the folding version. If you don't need the function, don't get it.

E. Heart Rate Monitoring/Heart Rate Control

You do not need a treadmill to monitor your heart rate since there are third party devices you can consider getting. Unless you intend to do specific training where your heart rate is controlled within a certain zone, you don’t need a heart control program function either. A word of caution is you need to check whether the treadmill measures your heart rate accurately. If your treadmill’s speed is controlled by your heart rate, inaccurate measurements of your heart could be dangerous.

That's it! If you keep the above points in mind, you will feel a lot less puzzled when you're doing your treadmill shopping. But if you want the answers arranged in a spoon fed manner, this is what treadmills411.com is for. Just visit our best buy section where we’ve already done all the research homework for you! If you decide to search for the perfect treadmill yourself, please keep what we have said in our guide in mind and happy hunting!